Proponents of alternative closures beat the drum of TCA, triclorolaminisol, the chemical produced by certain molds that give "corked" wine its wet cardboard smell. Some say as much as 8% of all wine is infested with this disgusting smell, but I personally think that figure is grossly overstated and being used as a "fact" to drive wineries toward other closures. I have been making wine commercially at the Ross Valley Winery since 1987, have pulled countless corks here in the tasting room or at home and have smelled each one of them. I can count the "corked" wines on one hand. It simply is not a problem for this winery. What is true is that some people are much more sensitive to the smell than others, so I have a small bottle of TCA on hand here if you feel you'd like to educate your nose palate to the smell. You'll never forget it.

I believe the popularity of say, plastic substitutes or even screw top closures is based in money and is a decision made by the corporate controller, who, as wineries look more and more like refineries, is responsible for assuring the corporation's financial quality.

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And even though "The Ross Valley Winery" prints very nicely on plastic closures, the closure is part of the aesthetic and tradition of the entire product. And wine is anything, it's traditional.I say that when Chateau Petrus starts using artificial closures, so will I. Meanwhile, I'll stick with natural cork.
About the Author

Paul Kreider, who made his first wine in 1975, is the owner and winemaker of the Ross Valley Winery in San Anselmo, California. Since 1987, with notable success, his small Marin County bonded winery has specialized in transforming modest lots of unique grapes into vineyard-designated wines, each with its own individual character and particular personality. Check our website at www.rossvalleywinery.com.