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Making Red Wine
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In Grandma's Kitchen (Part I)

One of my fondest childhood memories is being in the kitchen with my Hungarian grandmother. I loved watching her chopping vegetables, kneading dough, and leaning over bubbling pots in a kitchen that was always filled with wonderful aromas. I’d always help her after school—shelling peas or beans, scrubbing and peeling vegetables, and when I got older, helping to prepare dinner. My favorite was Friday dinner—we would always have some kind of savory soup followed by a noodle or sweet dish. I was always a sweet tooth and looked forward to egg noodles with eggs or jam, palacsinta (Hungarian crepes eaten with jam, cocoa, nuts or sweet cheese fillings), and, in the late summer, silvas gomboc (plum dumplings) topped with cinnamon sugar breadcrumbs.

Silvás Gomboc (Plum Dumplings)

The dough:
1 kg potatoes
3 egg yolks
Tbsp butter
A pinch of salt
1 cup flour

The filling:
2 pints of prune plums, pitted
1 box of sugar cubes
Ground cinnamon for sprinkling on plums

Topping:
1 stick of butter/equivalent amount vegetable oil
2-3 cups breadcrumbs
4-5 Tbsp granulated sugar
A few dashes of cinnamon

Cook the potatoes in salted water until done.
Put a large stockpot of salted water to boil.
Mash the potatoes and add the egg yolks, butter, salt, and flour (This can be done in a standing mixer with the dough attachment)
Add more flour as needed to make a moist, firm dough.
Roll the dough out on a floured board and place pitted plums onto the dough.
Sprinkle the plums with cinnamon and place a sugar cube in the center of each plum.
Cut the dough in squares around the plums and form dumplings (dip fingers in water to “fasten” the dough together if necessary).
Place dumplings gently into boiling water.
Cook until the dumplings rise to the surface and remove with a slotted spoon; set aside.

Melt the butter in a frying pan.
Add the breadcrumbs and brown them over medium heat.
Once the breadcrumbs are browned, add the sugar and cinnamon.

Layer the dumplings and breadcrumb mixture in a heatproof casserole dish.
Cover and warm in the oven until ready to serve.
Serve with additional sugar sprinkled on top.

Sweet dishes, cakes, and cookies are a major component of Hungarian cuisine and Hungarian cooks are great at taking advantage of fresh, seasonal ingredients for their creations. Summer is a wonderful time to eat in Hungary—the abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables is amazing—gooseberries, melons, sour cherries, squash, beans, peas, tomatoes, and an abundance of fresh herbs to flavor and garnish dishes. Most Hungarians with a back yard plant fruit trees and vegetable gardens. My grandparents continued that tradition after they immigrated to Canada--we had a huge garden where we grew beans, peas, cabbage, different varieties of squash, tomatoes, carrots, parsnips, as well as essential herbs such as parsley and dill. We also had a cherry tree, pear tree, and a sour cherry tree. Sour cherries have recently become more widely available in North America—you can find fresh ones at local farmer's markets in the summer and canned/jarred varieties are available in specialty grocery stores (Trader Joe’s carries a good brand). Two of my favorite recipes feature sour cherries. The first is a wonderful chilled soup that refreshes even on the hottest summer day. The second is a simple, versatile dessert for those craving something fresh and fruity after dinner or with afternoon coffee.

Meggyleves (Sour Cherry Soup)

1 medium/large-sized jar of sour cherries (also known as Morello cherries), strained.
1 ½ liters water
150 g (or more to taste)
1 tsp ground cinnamon plus one cinnamon stick
2-3 pieces of lemon rind (make sure the white part is trimmed off, otherwise the rind will be bitter)
1 cup sour cream
1 Tbsp flour (special blending flour for sauces/gravies works best)

Put the water, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon rind in a pot.
Bring to a boil and cook over medium heat until the liquid is well flavored.
Discard the cinnamon stick and add the cherries. Cook over gentle heat for about 5 minutes.
Mix the sour cream and flour until well blended. Add a ladle full of the soup liquid and mix well.
Pour the mixture into the soup and simmer gently until slightly thickened (about 5 minutes). Adjust sweetness by adding more sugar to taste. Let the mixture cool to room temperature and chill for 4 hours or overnight.
Serve as a first course or as a dessert.

The strained sour cherry juice can be mixed with chilled mineral water is a refreshing drink.

This soup can also be made with gooseberries or apples. I have also had a tasty version of this soup made with a mixture of pears and plums and thickened with yogurt instead of sour cream.

This simple cake is a classic and can be put together in less than 30 minutes.

Sour Cherry Cake

1 medium/large sized


jar of sour cherries
150 g butter, softened
150 grams icing sugar
4 eggs, separated
A pinch of salt and a pinch of cream of tartar
180 g flour
1 tsp baking powder
Additional icing sugar for dusting on top
Whipped cream

Preheat oven to 350F.
Line a rectangular cake pan with waxed paper.
Cream together the butter and icing sugar until fluffy, add egg yolks. Slowly add the flour and baking powder, mix well.
In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites with the salt and cream of tartar until stiff peaks form.
Slowly mix the beaten egg whites into the batter until well incorporated. Pour into prepared cake pan and spread evenly.
Sprinkle the cherries on top of the batter.
Bake for about 35-40 minutes, or until the top is golden and a tester comes out clean.

When the cake is cool, trim edges and cut into squares. Dust with icing sugar and serve with whipped cream if desired.

Another classic recipe is rétes (strudel). Although many Hungarians make strudel dough by hand—a long and messy process—filo pastry from the freezer section does the trick.

Almás Rétes (Apple Strudel)

1 kg grated apples (granny smith work best)
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 cups plain bread crumbs
Ground cinnamon to taste
1 package of defrosted phylo pastry
1 stick of melted butter

Preheat oven to 350F.
Unroll filo pastry and put 4 layers on a clean kitchen cloth.
Spread the apple filling in a long strip (about 3 inches wide) at one end of the pastry.
Top with sugar, cinnamon, and a layer of breadcrumbs.
Fold the sides of the pastry inwards and roll the dough to make a long roll.
Brush to top of the roll with melted butter.
Bake for 30 minutes, or until the rétes is golden brown.
Trim edges and slice into pieces at an angle.
Dust with icing sugar

Other rétes fillings include:

Sour cherry filling (drained, jarred cherries work best)
Substitute cherries for the apple in the above recipe.

Sweet Cheese filling
You can use a mixture of cream cheese and ricotta (250 g), mixed with 2 egg yolks, ½ cup of sour cream, a teaspoon of grated lemon rind, 200 g sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, and ½ cup raisins. Fold in 2 beaten egg whites and spread the filling in a long strip (about 3 inches wide) at one end of the pastry.

Another favorite sweet main dish my grandmother made was the Hungarian version of rice pudding, usually served with a white wine sauce. This was a Friday favorite.

Rizskoch (Rice Soufflé)

Butter/oil spray for baking dish
A handful of breadcrumbs
350 g short grain rice
1 liter milk
A pinch of salt
100 g butter
120 g icing sugar
3 eggs, separated

Preheat oven to 350F. Prepare an over proof dish by greasing with butter. Place rice and milk into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook over gentle heat, stirring often, until the rice is half cooked. Set the rice aside to cool slightly. Mix the butter, sugar, and egg yolks and mix into the half-cooked rice. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold into the rice mixture and mix well. Spread the mixture into the prepared dish and bake for about 30 minutes (or until the top is golden brown).

Borsodó (White Wine Sauce)

1 cup/250 mL white wine
80 g icing sugar
3 egg yolks
Juice of half a lemon, plus 1 tsp grated lemon rind

In a double boiler, whisk egg whites, sugar, wine, lemon juice and rind together. Continue whisking until the mixture is heated and thickened, but do not let it boil. Serve hot or chilled over the rice soufflé.

Palacsinta (Hungarian crepes) are an indispensable dessert in Hungary, and another Friday dinner classic. These thin pancakes can be served with simple fillings (jam, cocoa, or cinnamon sugar) or more elaborate fillings such as sweet cheese or ground nuts mixed with a bit of rum and sugar. Fresh fruit or apples sautéed in butter and sugar until soft and caramelized are also a nice filling.

Palacsinta

1 cup flour
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 ¼ cup milk
Pinch of salt
1Tbsp melted butter
Vegetable oil or butter for frying.

Place the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center and add the eggs. Begin whisking and slowly add the milk, breaking up any lumps (you can also use a hand mixer to do this). Stir in the melted butter.

Heat a few tablespoons in a skillet/frying pan. Pour a ladle-full of the batter into the pan, tilting the pan to coat the entire surface. Fry until the underside is golden brown and use a spatula to flip the crepe to cook the other side. Re-oil the pan and repeat. Stack the crepes on a plate and cover with foil to keep warm. Serve with desired filling.

Ilonka Oszvald is the co-founder of Online Cooking.

About the Author

Ilonka Oszvald is the co-founder of Online Cooking.

 

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Content Menu
  • 10 great wine tasting tips

  • 16 quick tips for eating at restaurants or work

  • 4000 year old secrets of green tea

  • aging gracefully

  • all about entertaining with food and wine

  • american fast food restaurants

  • and you thought coffee was bad for you

  • an idiots guide to wine tasting

  • an introduction to wine

  • australian bbq recipes

  • australian wines

  • australia is more than jacobs creek

  • autumn cooking great fall recipes and tips

  • a beginners guide to chinese cookery

  • a guide to gourmet coffee

  • a guide to wine racks

  • a perfect cup of coffee

  • bakers racks add flair and style to your kitchen

  • barbeque grilling has reached a whole new dimension

  • barbequing a fun and convenient way to make dinner

  • basque cuisine

  • beer and food pairings

  • blended and varietal wines

  • blue cheese omnivorous

  • braised fish in soy sauce hong shao yu

  • braised garlic short ribs with a red wine tomato sauce

  • build your own wine rack in an afternoon

  • buying wine how to read a wine label

  • buy fine wine at great prices a strategy

  • champagne wine

  • change your diet and eat the mediterranean way

  • cheese explore a new taste

  • chicken breasts with spicy rub

  • chicken with white wine pasta

  • chilean wine history and style

  • chinese dumplings on chinese new year

  • chocolate is good for you

  • choosing a wine gift basket

  • choosing wine on a first date

  • choosing wine to match food

  • christmas recipes main dishes no 9 of 12 duck with cardamom sauce

  • class on glass

  • coffee characteristics and how it helps you choose the perfect coffee for you

  • coffee everything you need to know from arabica to zanzibar

  • coffee is it getting too complicated

  • coffee with class

  • come home to comfort food

  • corks for wine

  • creating the perfect foam

  • cuban thanksgiving from our latin table

  • cucumber pork soup

  • delicoious swordfish

  • determining if a wine is spoiled

  • do you know these little known facts about tuscany wines

  • easy summer salads lighter foods for a brighter summer

  • ediths cake that thrilled the french

  • emu the natural alternativee for the backyard grill

  • enjoy colorado wines

  • enjoy your favorite winebut with some rules

  • experience the joy of eating at a restaurant

  • fall for outdoor entertaining this autumn

  • family life or wine for christmas dy

  • fantastic fruit

  • fine dining at the ark of las vegas lutece and tsunami asian grill

  • fondue 101 how to make cheese fondue

  • foods to avoid that cause bad breath

  • food and drink what to expect in costa rica

  • food and wine choice advice from an expert wine taster

  • formula for successful wedding party

  • french wine

  • french wine laws

  • fresh fare from the food isle ireland

  • from prix fixe to cold tea a glossary of popular and obscure restaurant terms

  • german wine the new commodity on the american market

  • get to grips with your wines

  • gift of the month clubs the lazy mans guide to gift giving

  • give a fondue party

  • gourmet a defining moment

  • gourmet centerpieces

  • gourmet coffee beans a brief overview

  • gourmet goodies

  • gourmet sauces rubs and marinades give your bbq a gourmet kick

  • grigio or gris this is a great white wine

  • grilled scallops with ginger lime sauce

  • guide to buying wine glasses

  • guide to tasting wine

  • hans is author of steaks seafood and

  • have a wine and cheese shower or party

  • have you bought your first case of wine yet

  • healthy fondue a guide to making broth and hot oil fondues

  • healthy seafood recipe

  • health benefits of tea

  • helens homemade fishcakes recipe

  • helens pan fried seabass

  • history of hawaiian coffee

  • history of the mendocino county wine industry

  • holiday cookie exchange

  • homemade christmas gifts from the kitchen make your own holiday gift baskets

  • honey dijon glazed ribs

  • hosting a wine party

  • hosting a wine tasting party

  • hot fun in the summertime

  • how sparkling wine is made

  • how to begin wine collecting

  • how to be creative when you are cooking

  • how to brew your own beer

  • how to grow grapes for excellent wine

  • how to host a memorable july 4th barbecue and have fun too

  • how to host a wine party

  • how to make beer

  • how to order wine in a restaurant

  • how to store wine

  • how wine is made

  • index

  • introduction to italian wine

  • in grandmas kitchen part i

  • in praise of the humble salad

  • in time for summer blue danube wine company introduces refreshing new varietals from hungary the craftsmane series from hilltop neszmely winery

  • is your italian olive oil really italian

  • italian cuisine in the heart of tuscany

  • italian cuisine more than pasta

  • kitchen pantry

  • knowledge and creativity

  • la minita coffee its in the green beans

  • learn about chardonnay wine

  • learn about the benefits of green tea

  • learn to deal with the wine steward in restaurants

  • left over wine

  • love wine join a wine club

  • low fat salmon recipes

  • make your own gourmet gift baskets

  • making red wine

  • making wine like a pro

  • maple flavored smoked turkey

  • marketing wine on the internet

  • more mead mlord irelands medieval banquets

  • murder by heat

  • not your orthodox way of learning about wine

  • oakville wine country

  • olive varieties

  • paella recipe secret

  • paella the most famous spanish dish

  • parmesan crusted sole with lemon beurre blanc

  • pinot gris or grigio this grape makes great wine

  • planning a fondue party

  • planning wine for your party

  • provence a wine lovers dream come true

  • quick reference buying and storage guide for cheese

  • raise a glass to the best wine of the month gifts

  • rare varietals cure wine boredom

  • reading an italian wine label

  • recipes from around the world right in your kitchen

  • reductions proving less is more

  • regional cuisine new england clam chowder

  • roasted vegetable and goat cheese salad

  • roast rack of pork with grain mustard sauce

  • rotator

  • rowan jelly mountain ash pyrus aucuparia

  • rubs to cook with

  • rutherford wine country

  • sangria blanca

  • sangria recipe

  • satisfy your wine desires join a wine club

  • sauces for quick gourmet cooking

  • sauces used in asian cooking

  • sauted family bean curd

  • seafood and corn beach barbecue

  • seafood fettuccine alfredo

  • selection of seafood recipes compliments of cafe hobson

  • serving wine

  • share a gourmet food basket with your lover

  • sherry a wine of tradition

  • sicilys great eggplant tomato stew

  • smell nothing taste nothing

  • southern mama

  • spanish food how to prepare boquerones

  • spanish food the tasty tortilla

  • specialty gourmet coffee

  • special ingredients shark fins birds nest

  • start your wine cellar the right way

  • storing your fine wine

  • substitutions for commonly used ingredients

  • sweet sour fish

  • sweet sour pork gu lao rou

  • sweet surprises

  • take a california wine country tour

  • tasteful gift giving

  • tasting wine

  • tasting wine the basics for beginners

  • tayberry jam

  • tayberry raspberry and strawberry jam

  • tea at sea

  • tempranillos role as a new varietal wine in australia

  • tempranillo a new red wine star in australia

  • ten foods with special powers

  • the 1976 paris wine tasting

  • the best of the boutiques

  • the curious history of wine consumption in america

  • the excellent french wine

  • the first rule of wine drinking

  • the french paradox

  • the fundamentals

  • the gentle art of poaching

  • the habanero chile

  • the harmony between food and wine

  • the harmony between wine and food

  • the history of italian coffee

  • the history of the acai berry

  • the history of wine country in the sierra foothills and the delta

  • the ideal temperature to store your wine

  • the latest craze on gourmet coffee

  • the major flavor components in wine

  • the mystery of decanting

  • the mystery of sparkling wine

  • the next shiraz varietal wines for australia

  • the perfect complement

  • the rise of rioja wines

  • the stuff of poetry mead

  • the sucessful dinner party

  • the true hystory of tiramisu

  • the wine and green mushroom caper

  • three rules for choosing the right dinner wine

  • tips to buying food online

  • to air is divine

  • twelve wines of christmas

  • understanding the basics of wine tasting

  • understanding wine grapes

  • understand wine and your health

  • unique gifts send food gifts for something delicious and different

  • using bargain wines to your advantage

  • vegan chocolate feeds the sweet tooth

  • water into wine

  • weight loss recipe veal mango

  • what is corked wine

  • what puts the sparkle in sparkling wine

  • what wine really is just in case you thought you knew

  • what wise guys eat

  • what you need in a gourmet kitchen

  • when punt is about packaging not football

  • which is for you blended or varietal wines

  • who made the first wine anyway

  • who needs a cookie jar

  • why red wine is red and other isnt

  • winezap launches new website to help wine consumers find price and compare wines subscribers to winezaps free newsletter offered 10 off any wine regardless of quantity purchased

  • wine accessories the things you need

  • wine and beer are good for us yes second in a series

  • wine and dine them

  • wine and onion bisque spring mix salad with worcestershire parsley dressing

  • wine a worthy teammate for football

  • wine etiquette with ease

  • wine e learning campus in malta

  • wine grapes white varieties

  • wine is in the moment

  • wine making and home brewing whats the deal

  • wine making for beginners

  • wine openers 6 styles reviewed

  • wine racks are great for all your bottle storage needs

  • wine rack storage simple guides on choosing

  • wine rack storage simple guides on choosing the right rack for your wines

  • wine storage hints and tips

  • wine storage is the key to preserving and aging your wine

  • wine tasting

  • wine tasting four easy steps to hosting a great wine tasting party

  • wine tasting in carneros

  • wine tasting in yountville

  • wine tasting the taditional way

  • wine tasting the traditional way

  • wooden wine rack vs metal wine rack